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Olympus E-P2 vs. Panasonic GF1 Part One: ISO and IQ Comparisons
Olympus E-P2 vs. Panasonic GF1 Part One: ISO and IQ Comparisons
You have 2 really nice cameras, but which one to choose? That’s what we’ve been debating here for the last couple of weeks while shooting with and thoroughly examining the Olympus E-P2 and the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1. Before we go on, let me just say that both cameras are a lot of fun to use, and either offers enthusiasts what they’ve been waiting a long time for, a compact camera body with DSLR image quality. We’re keenly aware that several other cameras now offer something similar (and we’re fond of those too), but what’s cool about the micro four thirds format (MFT) is the added benefit of being able to change lenses, though we will say that we wish both manufacturers would allow consumers to make a lens choice from the beginning by offering body only units. That said the two units are similar in appeal and overall capabilities, but don’t think for a minute that choosing between the two cameras will come down to a coin toss. There are some noticeable advantages to both cameras, and even the physical aesthetics could push you one way or the other.
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Key Differences
You’d think there would be more similarities than differences with these two offerings, but you’d be surprised at just how different the approaches are between the two camera. I’ve compiled some of the key differences below to give you a sense. The sensor sizes are marginally different, but there are a few key things to consider before purchasing either, the first being that the GF1 has a much better LCD, and yes it makes a real difference. On the other hand, the Olympus offers in-camera image stabilization (claimed 4, more like 3), while with Panasonic you’ll only get I.S. if you purchase one of their lenses with O.I.S included. Outside of those two aspects, the item most likely to grab your attention is the price. The E-P2 is more expensive, but that includes the EVF. To get the EVF on the GF1 you’ll have to add $199, but honestly you’ll have to ask yourself, “do I really need and EVF”? For some folks the answer will be yes, but I suspect many will be fine without it.
| Camera | Olympus E-P2 | Panasonic GF1 |
| Sensor | 12.3 effective megapixels | 12.1 effective megapixels |
| Image stabilization | Yes | No (available on lenses) |
| Stereo sound | Yes | No |
| LCD | 3 inch, 230K | 3 inch, 460k |
| EVF | Included: 1.15x magnification, 1,440k dots, 100% FOV | Not Included: 1.04x magnification, 202k dots, 100% FOV |
| Built-in flash | No | Yes |
| Bracket | 3 frames, 0.3, 0.7 or 1EV steps | 3,5,7 frames, 0.3 or 0.7 EV steps |
| Weight | 11.8 oz | 10.1 oz |
| Price | $1099 | $899 |
A Visual Comparison
The most obvious difference between the E-P2 and the G-F1 are their physical differences, and I’m not talking size, though for the record the GF1 is taller and lighter, while the E-P2 is wider and a tad heavier. No, I’m discussing the physical aesthetics of the two cameras with the E-P2 looking distinctly “throwback”, while the GF1 has a simple but modern approach to it.
Let me just start by saying that I really like the design of the E-P2, or more accurately the E-P1. I’m personally not enjoying the black finish as much as the E-P1’s unique stainless steel approach. But here’s what I’ve noticed in some rather unscientific testing. Put both cameras in anybody’s hands, and they like the E-P2 better than the GF1 every time…initially. The second time around nearly everyone gravitates more to the GF1’s design. I’ll admit it’s been the same with me. The GF1 feels better to me, even though the E-P2 certainly feels classier and more expensive.
Another thing, the GF1 design is more cohesive, mix and match it with other Panasonic MFT lenses, and it all works together, from a visual standpoint. I can’t really say the same with the Olympus offerings. Is that a big deal? No, but it hints to me a more thoroughly thought out roadmap and product planning.
I’m not quite ready to get too into depth on the handling aspects of the two cameras, but thus far I’m preferring the E-P2. For the most part they both handle great, but the E-P2’s vertical control dial and dedicated exposure compensation button makes adjusting aperture, shutter, and exposure compensation much easier than the GF1. It too has a command dial, but it’s quite shallow and has to be pressed to switch from say, aperture to exposure compensation. Not a huge deal, but it’s the little things…
I’ve put together a few shots of the two cameras, both individually and together, to give you a better sense of how the two visually compare. We’ve opted to equip both of ours with their respective pancake lenses, the 17mm f/2.8 on the E-P2, and the 20mm f/1.7 on the GF1.
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ISO Comparisons
Two cameras with similar sensors, so ISO should be about the same right? Well, yes it is. The two are indeed very similar, but I see the E-P2 having slightly less noise, the GF1 having a pinch more, but finer in appearance. Further, note the shadow areas on the E-P2, some blocky noise creeps in there at ISO 100 even, so mind your exposures (with both really) to minimize that. One additional thing I notice, the GF1 looks a tiny bit sharper. In fact we’ve re-tested these samples since the first run through showed a substantial sharpness advantage for the GF1. Turns out it was the 17mm f/2.8 lens on the E-P2, which I’m seeing as not being as sharp as the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7. For this version, I’ve opted to use the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 on both cameras, and the results are much closer.
For the test, both cameras set to f/8 in aperture priority, with noise reduction off, and sharpness set to “0″ in-camera. Click each thumbnail for a 100% view of each crop. The full sized and uncropped ISO samples can be found here. In each set, the Olympus E-P2 is on the left and the Panasonic GF1 is on the right.
Crop Source
Crop 1
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| ISO 100 | ISO 200 |
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| ISO 400 | ISO 800 |
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| ISO 1600 | ISO 3200 |
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| ISO 6400 (E-P2 ONLY) |
Crop 2
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| ISO 100 | ISO 200 |
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| ISO 400 | ISO 800 |
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| ISO 1600 | ISO 3200 |
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| ISO 6400 (E-P2 ONLY) |
Crop 3
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| ISO 100 | ISO 200 |
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| ISO 400 | ISO 800 |
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| ISO 1600 | ISO 3200 |
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| ISO 6400 (E-P2 ONLY) |
Image Samples
Finally, I’ve included a couple of image samples for your analysis. In general, I’m finding sharper results with the GF1 which, as we mentioned above, benefits from a slightly sharper lens, and sharper in-camera processing (even when set to “zero”). Though these aren’t intended to be scientific comparisons, most were taken at similar settings, and can at minimum give one a sense of how the two cameras see the same scene. I find the GF1 takes a safer approach most of the time with very muted and natural colors at it’s default settings, and it’s worth mentioning it also outperforms many cameras at white balancing, especially indoors. The E-P2 tends to underexpose a tad, and perhaps as a result has a punchier look to it, which some will prefer. Click each thumbnail for a larger view, or explore the “original size” link for the full sized (un-edited) file.
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| Camera: Olympus E-P2 Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 45 mm ISO Speed: 125 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size | Camera: Panasonic DMC-GF1 Exposure: 0.006 sec (1/160) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 45 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size |
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| Camera: Olympus E-P2 Exposure: 0.003 sec (1/320) Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length: 17 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size | Camera: Panasonic DMC-GF1 Exposure: 0.003 sec (1/320) Aperture: f/2.8 Focal Length: 20 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size |
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| Camera: Olympus E-P2 Exposure: 0.025 sec (1/40) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 17 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size | Camera: Panasonic DMC-GF1 Exposure: 0.02 sec (1/50) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 20 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size |
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| Camera: Olympus E-P2 Exposure: 0.04 sec (1/25) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 17 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size | Camera: Panasonic DMC-GF1 Exposure: 0.033 sec (1/30) Aperture: f/8.0 Focal Length: 20 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: 0 EV original size |
Stay tuned for our next part in this series, centered around the AF and interfaces of the two cameras.
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Since Panasonic 20mm f1.7 is superior, can be used on either cameras, and has been the lens of choice too for many users of E-P1/E-P2. Would it be a fair and more informative comparison regarding the image quality between these two camera using the same 20mm lens? The focus speed of E-P1/E-P2 can be improved by pairing with the Panasonic 20mm lens. Otherwise, thanks for the excellent review.
Uncletc,
Yeah, I don’t know about how fair that is. In the ISO tests I did exactly what you’ve suggested and used the same lens in order to put both in an equal light. Most folks will be buying one kit or the other and thus have one lens or the other. That said, when I get to the reviews of each, I’ll likely have sample pics from a variety of lenses. The point of the samples here is to show more exposure differences and image feel differences (if any), than lens superiority.
That said, anybody stopping in should know that both are capable of near identical image quality given the same lens, though as I said even with the same lens the GF1 provides sharper results when bother are set to “zero” sharpness.
It is hard to say whether it is fair to use different lenses. Olympus does not offer the body only EP2 (mentioned in this review). As a result, customer is required to pay additional to get the 20mm lense.
Galen,
It’s a valid question, not exactly sure what the best approach would be, but comparing one kit vs another, the GF1 is the better kit—given the lens.
Patrick,
Can you comment more on the color handling of the 2 jpg engines? For me, the amount of post camera processing required to get pleasing colors is a very important factor.
Thank you for a great review so far,
Garrett
Hi Garret,
We’ll more on that in the next installment, exploring some of the various in-camera options. At their base settings, the GF1 takes the more subdued path to my eye, but I’ll let you be the judge when I get that post up later this week. Are you leaning one way or the other?
Hi Patrick,
It’s an interesting draw. To me,it comes down to lens versus jpg rendering.
The Pany lenses are compelling, and yes, they do work on Oly bodies, but as you point out, Oly doesn’t sell the body alone. So to get that sweet 20mm prime on an ep-2 will cost me $400 over the already $200 price premium. Moreover, much is made about Oly IBS and how that translates to cheaper lenses, but if Pany is making the more desirable glass (faster, sharper), that’s irrelevant (unless Pany refuses to stabilize their primes).
That said, Oly image processing is said to be so good, that there isn’t the usual compelling reason to have to use RAW. That is a huge plus for me. I like going RAW on occasion, but having to rely on it for acceptable images is wearisome.
I look forward to reading the next section to see what you think.
-Garrett
Garett,
That’s what I’m trying to say, to get that additional sharpness, you’ll end up paying more $$$, and even with the IS, you might end up getting sharper results from the GF1. I really like the E-P1 body myself, it just looks so good, but having both lenses in my possession to test…I prefer the 20mm over the 17. Ideally you’d get a body only E-P1 or E-p2 and then snag a 20mm, but that’s not currently possible.
I must say, the black E-P2 looks just gorgeous, much better than E-P1.
So strange, I feel the exact opposite. It’s still nice and certainly not like any other camera, but the stainless steel look really grew on my while we had it to review.
Maybe it would for me too.
I think I mainly had the white model in mind, maybe that’s the one I’d seen most pictures of.
I do like a steel camera.
It does look good here.
It does look good, but… what I don’t like is the lens look, they just don’t “match” very well if you get my drift, designed by 2 different teams both thinking “small” but on different aesthetic pages.
Oddly the Panny 20 f/1.7 looks fine and dandy on the E-P2—like it should be the kit lens. Instead you have to put a silver 17mm on it, which doesn’t match at all. Very strange team those Olympus folks.
I guess the Panasonic 20mm works fine on it, though. (It’s a great lens.)
have yout noticed that GF1 is 2/3 stop more sensitive in high-ISO test shots? so in real life ISO performance is roughly the same with both cameras!
That sounds about right, the E-P2 is a bit underexposed at default settings, and really… there aren’t very noticeable noise differences. More noticeable is the differences between the way the two handle the same scene…
Is there a link to part 2 in comparing the jgp engines? Thanks
wksoh,
the link to the jpg engine comparison is :
http://www.neutralday.com/olympus-e-p2-vs-panasonic-gf1-jpeg-engine-comparison/
So do I understand this correctly. If I get one of the Olympus bodies and then get the Panasonic 20mm F/1.7 it would be stabilized on that body?. How many stops do you get at that focal length then in terms of stabilization?
Eric,
That’s right, the Olympus stabilizes whatever lens is attached, good for I’d say 2 stops of real power, though I think they claim more. The E-P2, or my preference the E-P1 works quite well with the 20mm.
Thanks Patrick.
No problem.